Busy Going Nowhere - David Rivett
Just our usual Summer cruise to France was how I described this year’s holiday and in fact it was barely a cruise since we only got as far as St Malo. But looking back, I am amazed at the diversity of it and reflect on just how lucky we are to be able to cast off and go sailing.
We left our berth in Hythe Marina on Southampton Water lateish on Sunday June 17th and just caught the last of the ebb to carry us through Hurst Narrows. Being pretty tired after a long week at work we turned South East cutting in close to the Needles light and heading along the Southern cost of the Isle of Wight to Freshwater Bay. The wind was from the North so the bay was reasonably protected and we dropped anchor in 6 metres.
There was some left-over swell and it proved very rolly which had supper bouncing off the fiddles of the cockpit table. We turned in as the sun went down and, rather like the simple animals we seem to become when sailing, woke at dawn to a windless day and the phut, phut of a lobsterman checking his pots. Not wanting to disturb Brenda I raised anchor as quietly as I could and by 5am we were underway, motoring due South across a glassy sea towards Cherbourg. Motored at a steady five knots for most of the day until about 10 miles from the W entrance the wind backed to the West and with 12-15 knots gave us a satisfying beam reach into the outer harbour only dropping sail as we rounded the marina breakwater.
Massive restoration underway along the outer breakwater, which, as with so many French harbours, is being restored to its original granite glory; no concrete patch and mend here.
Entered Marina at 16.30 BST and found empty visitor’s finger berth. Always grateful for someone to take our lines on the slippery gyrating, plastic stubs that pass for pontoons and barely reach to midships. No matter how often we sail to France and how mundane the destination, there is always a delicious differentness about arriving and knowing that we can wander ashore to good food, lots of proudly independent and beautifully presented shops, patisseries and the rest. France still retains a real and tangible national character which has disappeared in so much of the UK. Early meal in main square and then to bed.
Tuesday June 19th. Headed for the giant Carrefour next to the fish dock where we stocked up with wine and beer basics. Always useful to be able to borrow a trolley back to the boat. Normally there are several at the head of the pontoon which Carrefour obligingly collect but not today, we were about to set off to return it but an amiable and talkative wino wondered whether we would mind him doing the job for us so that he could pocket the 10FF deposit. Pas de probleme!
Returned on board for our quintessential holiday lunch of prawns, baguette, salad, and Muscadet. I was just beginning to feel that almost floppy relaxation that takes a day or so to kick in when Brenda uttered a yelp. A tooth was giving her sharp pains. Nothing for it but to search out a local dentist. The marina staff were very helpful and with suitably annotated map set off to experience French dentistry. It was wonderful. Behind a peeling façade in a little back street was the most obliging dentist who agreed to see Brenda within half an hour. His surgery was ultra high tech and he had x-rayed and inspected in a trice. The tooth, probably intimidated by such efficiency, stayed very quiet despite tappings and proddings. With profuse thanks we parted with about £14 and returned to the boat very impressed.
Wednesday We had decided to leave at 7am, a couple of hours before HW and stem the last of the flood to arrive off Cap de la Haague at slack water. Wind was a flooky Norwesterly but with our asymmetric flying we made about 5 knots and arrived pretty much on schedule. Once past the La Haague cardinal buoy we turned due South and kept close inshore down past Dielette and the crouching nuclear domes that helpfully make it easy to spot from seaward. We pressed on carrying the ebb until Les Ecrehou rocks were abeam. Slowly the tide turned against us but down in this corner of the Cotentin Peninsula the streams are not that strong so we continued to make
